Drawn to Peru

A longtime desire and a promise to oneself

The journey to Peru to climb Machu Picchu was spiritual. Long ago, Bebi felt compelled to travel to Peru to help children learn to read and build better lives. At that time in her life, it was a difficult decision to choose between pursuing that dream and starting a family. Bebi chose to have a family here in Canada, but kept the dream of going to Peru alive. Bebi has held onto her mission of giving in many forms over the years, through volunteering in schools and at the YMCA’s community recreation programs, and now by operating her own yoga studio, Dana. Dana is a Sanskrit word meaning generosity. For those who know Bebi, her spirit, kindness, and actions always shine through in her contributions to the community.

Last year, Bebi began exploring her dream of travelling to Peru. Bebi’s scientific background naturally led her to research the climb to Machu Picchu. The elements of the hike included altitude, treacherous footing, inclement weather, and camping. The most challenging aspect of the hike is named “Dead Woman’s Pass”… how intimidating!

A goal this size requires endurance and fitness to hike for 4 days, each lasting 7 hours. Healthy joints are essential to manage the Inca Trail’s stone steps.

Bebi recognized that her fitness was far from the goal. Her barriers included shoulder pain and low aerobic fitness. With strong determination and confidence in my coaching, Bebi booked the trip 6 months in advance to prepare for the Machu Picchu hike.

A meaningful goal fuels a rewarding fitness training process. In my mind, this is an essential part of the enjoyment of the training process. An uplifting experience like this will help to fuel a lifelong commitment to fitness and health. As with anyone setting an ambitious goal, I was apprehensive. Preparing for the journey, overcoming joint issues, and improving aerobic fitness in only 6 months would be a challenge. I needed commitment and honesty. Bebi readily agreed to make lifestyle adjustments to benefit her recovery. Prioritizing herself was top of the agenda. Yes, those of us in helping professions often struggle to prioritize ourselves. We love helping others and can neglect ourselves. Now, Bebi embarked on a self-care routine prioritizing rest, recovery, strength and aerobic endurance. 

Our common passion for wellness and personal transformation created a strong sense of excitement between us. As Bebi explained the significance of this goal, I could hear her deep desire for a healthier future and her understanding of what it takes to continue beyond the Inca Trail.

The start of the plan encouraged the creation of a daily routine to support the future fitness loading. Japanese Health Coach Kaki Okumure describes making change as:

“I’ve reminded myself that it’s the little steps we decide to take every day that actually count towards becoming a more well-rounded version of ourselves- whether that be improving our health, learning skills, healing, or something else.”

The first months of training brought the highs of achieving weekly goals and the lows of exhaustion and muscle cramps. I could see a readiness for the journey to Peru.

The Machu Picchu Quest

As I bade farewell to Bebi, her belief in herself was strong. She had built her foundation (improved hip stability) to overcome her knee injury and, along with improving her health, was no longer at risk of diabetes! Both her family doctor and coach were thrilled for her.

Arrival in Peru. Time spent at altitude ahead of the hike was challenging. Fighting a cold and staying confident was Bebi’s narrowed focus. Her courage was rising as she reflected on her training to get here and the excitement for finally being in Peru. Meeting her trail guide Victor Mogollon Aller was positive.

As the 8-person hiking group set out with guide Victor, supported by the verdant greenery, Bebi’s yoga practice brought her mind back to the trail and to the moment. There was an energy in the atmosphere- a spiritual and delightful energy. Day 1 ended on a high note!

Dead Woman’s Pass –Elevation of 4,215 meters (13,828 ft)

Restful sleep and adequate nutrition prepared by the hardworking porters, supporting this adventure, made for a fresh start on Day 2. But soon, the endless climb and continuous elevation gain began to challenge Bebi’s breathing. The combination of fatigue and often being on her own was helped by not dwelling in her head; she kept moving forward instinctively. Despite the relentless fatigue of endless climbing, Bebi felt “a guiding spirit”. The surroundings greatly lifted her: a rainforest, eucalyptus, hanging mosses, gushing streams and the quietness of the trail. The moss created an almost spring-like energy, thanks to its freshness and moisture-retaining qualities.

Encountering vicuñas grazing on short grasses and curious alpacas felt practically human-like. Bebi longed to take in the sights but pushed onward to fulfill the daily hike goal. Mentally and physically, Dead Woman’s Pass tested her.

Still, the exhaustion made no room for visualizing the peak of day 2’s climb- Dead Woman’s Pass. Just as she accepted the norm of laboured breathing, she heard her trusted guide announce at the top of his voice, “Bebi, you made it to Deadwoman’s Pass!” Bebi replied in disbelief and confusion, “This is it??????” When Victor reassured her that she had made it and asked her to put her hands in the air for a victory photo. All Bebi could manage was to drop into a joyful yet exhausted slump against the trail marking.

The health scare

Victor checked everyone’s oxygen levels in the evening to determine whether it was safe to proceed. When it came to Bebi’s turn, the machine wouldn’t read her level. Yikes!!! Now this could create anxiety similar to white coat syndrome when a Doctor takes your blood pressure. Your tension increases along with the B/P! Victor took a reading nothing appeared! Bebi kept herself quiet and out of panic mode by drawing on her yoga-centred calm. Victor switched and tested the opposite hand, and thankfully, it worked to read 89-90 blood oxygen! Regular readings are between 95 and 100. At the Machu Picchu elevation, there’s about 35% less oxygen per breath, according to the Fertur Peru travel blog.

After dinner, as a self-proclaimed non-camper, Bebi was grateful for the basics: a tent, a mat, and a sleeping bag to rest. It’s incredible how such basic equipment and shelter can offer respite after an exhausting day.

This 4-day journey continued to push. Most people look forward to descending, but in reality, it puts more pressure on the knees. Bebi adjusted her pace to stay within her limits, avoiding knee strain or loss of footing. Into the darkness and alone, Bebi kept going, determined to complete this goal independently. Bebi arrived at camp in the dark, alone. Her mindset had changed significantly. Bebi was in survival mode. Her resolve was stronger than ever to complete this

On the morning of day 4, the joy of anticipating the realization of arriving at the completion of Machu Picchu was evident throughout camp. There was also a sudden feeling of nausea that Bebi felt. The build-up of fatigue, along with an empty stomach due to a lack of appetite, led to dry heaves. Again, Bebi relied on her personal resources as a Yoga teacher to use pranayama, or yogic breathing, to more easily access oxygen. I was so proud of Bebi for applying her knowledge in challenging circumstances.

This was going to be a shorter day; onward she trekked. Sometimes the very things that helped us can hinder us. On this last leg of the hike, Bebi could no longer use her poles. Victor sought out Bebi and encouraged her to use her poles when fatigue was overtaking. Bebi responded, “I have limited oxygen, and the poles will exhaust me further!” Bebi was tuning in to her needs and using her scientific wisdom to self-manage. Bebi carried on without the poles, managing each breath and labouring step.

The serenity of these final moments was not lost to Bebi, and the draw to continue was strong. The Incas believed in the powerful spirit, the Apus of the living mountains. The protective Apus reside in high peaks in the Andes, and this draw felt stronger as Bebi continued up the final steep steps, surrounded by the beauty and peace of large ferns, begonias, hummingbirds, birdsongs and Peru’s native flower, cantuta.

Her final stride along the Inca trail was met with cheers from her guide, who waited along with the rest of the group at Inti Punku, Sungate. Elation, as a sudden sense of joy and relief, was followed by a gradual sense of pride, embraced with compassion and acknowledgement of this undertaking.

This final day brought serenity. Accomplishing Machu Picchu was, by Bebi’s definition, blood, sweat, tears, and unimaginable fatigue. This released a higher self-belief. Bebi shared her hike reflection:

“Having done this feat has been a cleansing thing. I wouldn’t have known this was in me. Doing something really difficult reaffirms your potential. I am fulfilled and transformed because of doing this hike.”

I applaud Bebi for her journey to Machu Picchu. She demonstrated an incredible willingness to trust her training, put in the necessary effort, and grow throughout this experience. Bebi embraced the challenge of completing the goal while immersing herself in the beauty of the Inca Trail, its rich history, nature, and the energy of the mountains. Each step along the trail allowed her to connect with the sacred elements of the Inca people’s strong faith and their architectural achievements for agricultural purposes. This journey has sparked an unforgettable spiritual response within her, and I am confident it will continue to inspire her for years to come.

By Jenny Brown